Why are Peach and Porcelain the Default

Rethinking the Definition of Nude in the Beauty Industry

- Swetha Sutharsan

Spiced Cappuccino and Pecan Pie, Salted Caramel and Espresso Shots- these are a few of my favourite things… and the enticing (not to mention peculiarly all food-related) shade names of nude products within the beauty industry. 

 

Despite the exciting names, the concept of nude shades has endured a fluctuating journey of constant controversies and recent appreciation. Although predominantly seen within the beauty community, nude products have managed to create their own space within many industries including undergarments and medical dressing. In fact, it took me sixteen years to realize the bandage was originally intended to camouflage into your skin tone rather than stick out like a sore thumb and draw attention to the wound. As a brown-skinned girl, I understand the frustration that comes along with looking for nude products in the beauty industry and consistently feeling inferior and secondary within society. 

 

Nude beauty products date back to a pre industrialized beauty era. Make-up artist, Julie Hewett, recognizes Sumerian Queen Shub-Ad as one of the first influential figures in history to sport some form of colour on her lips. Sculptures of Queen Shub-Ad are complete with a delicate nude lip shade, which is seen across the majority of her depictions. Although the ingredients used to form this colour consisted of crushed up white lead and rocks, this creation can be cited as the ancestor to modern day lipstick. Similarly, white lead was used in 200 BC  by the Greek and Roman empires as a form of foundation. Writer Karishma Loynmoon notes that the white lead was used to create a pale complexion as lighter skin was associated with prosperity during that time. Colourism within the beauty world existed upon its introduction and continued to toxicate the industry throughout time. 

 

As centuries proceeded, formulas within the makeup realm were enhanced and nude beauty products found a new popularity in the 1960’s and 70’s. However, the dismissive nature of the term “nude” became prevalent as it failed to represent all skin tones, and instead placed an overwhelming emphasis on lighter complexions. Cosmetic brands have been guilty of creating a limited range of nude colours to encapsulate a multitude of different complexions. ELLE Canada’s Mayillah Ezekiel breaks down the importance of “Redefining Nude,” as she writes, “The term ‘nude’ as a colour descriptor is rooted in exclusion, just like the beauty and fashion industries that often employ it,” which acknowledges the subconscious association of nude with light tones, while inadvertently dismissing darker shades. 

 

Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty was one of the first cosmetic companies to offer a foundation range encompassing over 40 different shades with various undertones and hues for each skin complexion. The necessity for redefining “nude” was finally recognized and declared by the public, as many accordingly praised Fenty Beauty for its attentiveness towards its shade ranges. MAC Cosmetics, Dior and Huda Beauty are just a few examples of popular makeup brands who have expanded their nude range as a result of immense backlash (which they had a long time coming). Afterall, how can these makeup companies expect someone with a deeper complexion to wear a peach coloured lipstick while seemingly calling it “nude.” 

 

Although the need for an expanded shade range continues amongst many cosmetic companies, it is imperative to note the steps the beauty industry has made to redefine the term “nude.” Margaux Anbouba’s Vogue article includes an interview from Dior’s creative and image director, Peter Philips, who recalls, “Different cultures and then the women in that culture approach the idea of nude individually. Now, we have a nude for everybody.” 

 

Long gone are the times of using white lead to create the impression of affluence- it’s time to redevelop formulas and expand shade ranges to serve every consumer. It may be due to the backlash or it may simply be a plea to stay relevant within a competitive market, regardless of the reasoning cosmetic brands have begun listening and realizing that shades like “porcelain” and “peach” really aren't for everyone.